Wolffer Estate,Story and photographs by Christopher J. Davies, Publisher & Editorial Director
Less than a quarter mile north of the main road (Route 27) of the Hamptons lies an elegant winery estate. Its rustic, straw colored, Tuscan-style building is built into a rise, overlooking rows of thriving grapevines.
Sagaponack is a quiet town just west of East Hampton, one of the most affluent zip codes in the US. It is easy to assume that Wolffer Estate wines are savored at many of the swank Hamptons parties that are reported on "Inside Edition". During the past few years, several celebrities (Billy Joel, Bill Murray and Harry Smith) have left their autographs behind in Wolffer Estate's barrel
room. Nevertheless, hoopla and fluff have no effect on the high standards and unique philosophy that set this great winery apart from others on the East End of Long Island and even the East Coast. Although Wolffer Estate is an American winery, it operates in a very European tradition.
There are two main attractions that frame the backbone of this story: the wine and winery. Neither would be so unique without the guidance of several key individuals. Over 22 years ago, Hamburg-born Christian Wolffer, the proprietor, had a vision for turning a simple, 14-acre potato farm with farmhouse into a world class winery. Known as a quintessential entrepreneur with a diversified array of holdings, Wolffer has patiently built his state-of-the-art winery and expanded his Sagaponack Vineyards to 55 acres. The overall estate now spans a whopping 170 acres, including the 100-acre Sagapond Stables and Equestrian Center, Wolffer farm, and the newly opened farm stand that sells Wolffer cheese and wine.
Roman Roth, Winemaker and General Manager, is also German born. He has an esteemed reputation among other Long Island winemakers. Roman has a careful, European approach in crafting his wine. At 34, Roth has already spent more than half of his life making wine, first in Germany, then California and Australia.
When I interviewed Winemaker Roman Roth, I first asked him what his thoughts were on the recent expansion going on within the Long Island wine region. Roman summed it all up with these great words. "It is easy to become a father, but to be one is another story." Having tasted Roth's wines, I can say he has done a fine job disciplining his children. If mine were this well mannered, they'
d be grapes! I can only imagine Roman in the wine cellar, shouting, "Who's your daddy?" to the French oak barrels.
Roth is well respected by his peers. Richard Olsen-Harbich, Winemaker at Raphael in Peconic, states, "Call me a little biased because of the years I spent at Brideghampton, but I often feel that South Fork Chardonnay outshines its counterparts on the North Fork.The aromas can be very clear and fresh with a lemon-citrus acidity that is not found on the North Fork. I also feel that Roman is one of the best winemakers on Long Island. He understands the concept of growing wine, concentrating flavors in the vineyard through yield management, and he consistently produces wonderful, flavorful wines even through the sometimes difficult vintages in the Hamptons. To me, it's one of the best Chardonnays in the East."
Richard Pisacano, Vineyard Manager, is a Long Island native with over 24 years experience in managing the growth of grapevines. He apprenticed with Mudd Vineyards during the inception stage of the Long Island wine industry, first working at Jamesport Vineyards and Pindar Vineyards. Richard also owns his own vineyard on the North Fork, selling grapes to other producers. Pisacano takes extra steps to ensure that he produces the best possible fruit by the continual grooming of the fruit and very intense balancing, thus accessing the potential of the vines. If you make a comparison of Wolffer's vines to those at another vineyard, they might appear a little thinner or less full. This is because Pisacano believes in meticulously hand-grooming his vines.
He pulls off dead leaves to improve the grapes' exposure to the sun. He says this method complements the unique growing differences found on the South Fork of Long Island. "We are never forced to pick our grapes," states Pisacano.
There are a number of other personnel who together make a finely synchronized team at Wolffer Estate.
The Wolffer Wine Tasting Experience
Tasting at the Wolffer Estate winery building is a most different experience. When you arrive at the winery, you park your vehicle in the front of the building and take the center steps up, passing a lovely, circular, coin-filled fountain. Don't forget to toss a penny into the fountain and make a wish for good luck! As you enter through the massive, wooden front doors, you will find a high-ceilinged, terra cotta tiled, wood beamed,
romantically lit tasting room which reminds me of the inside of a castle. Sets of tall French doors open to the patio with a phenomenal view of the vineyards. A beautiful antique stained glass window imported from Germany dominates the room. The walls are decorated with original art from featured artist exhibitions. To the north of the tasting room is a private meeting/party room with its own kitchen.
Tasting is conducted either sitting down at the center tasting bar or at one of several wooden tables. The atmosphere is quite relaxed and pressure-free. The staff members are friendly and knowledgeable. If you have a little time, you might purchase a bottle or glass of wine and sit outside on the patio to enjoy the view of the vineyards. Even better, buy a piece of Wolffer's own Sagapond Farm Stand Cheese, a flavorful, Emmental-style Swiss cheese made from milk from Wolffer cows.
Touring the winery
Tours are offered by advance reservation. The winemaking facility is located one level (ground) below the tasting room. A glimpse of the winemaking facility can be seen through the glass windows in the tasting room. The barrel rooms are high, vaulted caves which are carefully cooled. Wines are aged in French oak barrels or in computerized, stainless steel tanks. Of particular interest to me was the highly sterile bottling line, which goes through a glass-encased room. The facility also includes a laboratory and a riddling room for storing and aging Wolffer's sparkling wines.
During my tour, Roman Roth showed me the library, a special wine cellar which stores vintage Wolffer releases that will undoubtedly increase in value in the future.
Special Events
Wolffer Estates is conducting a ceaseless schedule of special events this summer and fall. Among these events are the James Beard Foundation's annual Chefs and Champagne fund raiser, the Al Fresco Chef Series, the New World Symphony Series, and the Metropolitan Opera Series, which features outstanding young singers. The fine acoustics of the winery are known to enhance listeners' pleasure. For details about these events, visit our "Events" section or contact Wolffer at (631) 537-5106 Ext.17. Reservations are required.
Wolffer Estate Wines
I asked Roman Roth what makes his wines and the South Fork different from other wines from Long Island. "We focus on making good, drinkable wine. We try to keep our wines balanced and in control but not too stressed" remarked Roth.
The following wines are available for tasting at Wolffer Estate's tasting room. Many of Wolffer's wines have received gold medals and serious accolades from the press.
Must try:
Winemaker's view of the region:
Summary:
Location:
Wolffer Estate Vineyards
"During the next ten years, I believe that Long Island will be New York's favorite Chardonnay. In international terms, I believe that a Long Island will represent the East Coast of the US. Long Island will become known as a passionate, boutique wine-growing region. Long Island's vineyards are young and have the potential for producing better fruit."
Wolffer Estate Vineyards is a "must stop" in the Long Island wine country! Try their great wines and tour their European style winery and vineyards!
139 Sagg Road
PO Box 9002
Sagaponack, NY 11962
Tel (631) 537-5106
Fax (631) 537-5107
www.Wolffer.com