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smithens Sherwood House Vineyards,
Mattituck, New York

Story and photographs by Christopher J. Davies, Publisher & Editorial Director

LI's newest hands-on, boutique wine producers

Many a person can dream about the idyllic life of living on a vineyard on weekends. But in reality, it takes incredible commitment, patience, financing and good luck to be a successful vineyard proprietor. Dr.Charles Sherwood Smithen and his lovely wife Barbara have managed to achieve enormous success in the five years since they purchased their home and acreage in the heart of the Long Island Wine Country.

Most recently, Sherwood House Vineyard's first commercial release; 1999 Estate Bottled Chardonnay, won a Bronze medal at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London. Howard Goldberg of the New York Times also just gave this same wine a respectable 91 rating. Two big Kudos for the Smithen's in my opinion!

One would have to wonder about this monumental achievement made by a relatively unknown wine producer. With all the growing competition on Long Island, how could this have been possible? QUALITY! As you will read in this story, their secret is a stringent focus on QUALITY. And the pay off is already appearing in their wine. This has made other Long Island wine producers and fans take notice.

Sherwood House made its first local debut of its new Chardonnay at the recent "Lenz Chardonnay Classic". The annual event offers tasters the chance to taste and compare over 200 different Chardonnays from around the world. Premiering a first release Chardonnay at this event was a bold move for a newbie. But winemakers and tasters reacted to the new wine quite favorably.

When I visited the Smithen's, Barbara was in her living room struggling with her new digital camera's software system. Charles was actively overseeing workers and their activities in their vineyard. The Smithen's home was built in 1860 and has a plain but familiar exterior appearance for an Eastern Long Island farm home.

Entering their dinning room I liked what I saw. This home was decorated in warm earthy tones and could easily have passed as a Martha Stewart makeover. Barbara told me that she had worked with local contractor John Scaramici to completely gut the first floor of house and create the present open and modernized living area. The end result is wide-open living space, which is ideal for entertaining with clear visibility of the vineyard.

The couple has owned property on the North Fork for the past twenty years. Six years ago, they succumbed to their urge for owning and living on a vineyard. "In 1996 Charles called me to say that he had put down a $1 good faith deposit on a lovely farm in Mattituck. It was like a dream come true " explained Barbara.

How did a successful couple, Charles a Cardiologist and President of his own medical practice and Barbara a Public Relations Executive, get the bug for the wine biz? Charles say's it began for him years ago when he was studying medicine in London. "The English were instrumental in supporting French wines. I gained a great appreciation for wine while living in England".

Over the years, Barbara and Charles have watched the Long Island wine industry maturing on the North Fork. " I had a romantic vision to live amongst the vines. I feel that this is Napa Valley ten years ago. Oregon road is a nice street with a great terroir. Passion and hands-on is what it's about. As a doctor, I know a lot about science. But great wine and great doctors must be artistic" remarked Dr. Smithen.

Oregon road is famous for great grape growing. There are a number of well-respected producers in the area; Lieb Family Cellars, Wesley Hall Vineyards (Ternhaven Cellars) and Castillo di Borghese/Hargrave Vineyards just blocks away to the south. Leslie Alexander, the owner of the Houston Rockets has also purchased vineyard property on the eastern end of Oregon Road.

The Smithen's vineyard is approximately 38 acres. Current plantings include; Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. They sell-off some of their fruit to several not to be named, established wine producers.

Dr.Smithen's vision for Sherwood House Vineyards is to be known as a high quality, boutique, and cult style vineyards. Production will be purposefully limited with no skimping on quality. Current harvest is only 2.5 tons per acre, which means that a high percentage of fruit is dropping to the ground, unused. Compare this figure to some of Northern California's mass wine producers (such as Benziger) with yields in the area of 10 tons per acre. It is easy to see why Sherwood House cannot afford to sell their wine at 2 bottles for $7 in the grocery store!

To achieve and maintain high quality standards, early on the Smithen's assembled a strong team of the area's best-regarded craftsman. Steven Mudd of Mudd Vineyards, the areas most highly regarded grape grower, has been on the project since the beginning. Steve dropped by during my visit to check the vineyard.

To craft his wines, Smithen first turned to Russell Hearn-former winemaker at Pellegrini Vineyards. The first production, a Burgundian style Chardonnay was fermented and aged and bottled at Paumanok in Aquebogue. Gilles Martin a French born and educated wine professional and the former winemaker at Macari Vineyards worked with Hearn to complete the 1999 vintage. Martin has since taken over all of the winemaking duties. "Quite simply stated, he is the best". Charles will unequivocally tell you.

During my visit, Gils Martin arrived to meet with Charles and to take a peak at the grapes that were being harvested. "The 2001 harvest is looking to be a good one he remarked".

"Our wine will always be made from our estate grown grapes exclusively". Charles notes with pride. Next year a 2000 Merlot will be brought to market. The first vintage is approximately 320 cases and already showing great promise in the barrel.

The Smithen's speak fondly of the North Fork and the friendships that they have developed with members of the LI wine industry. Over the next several years the Smithen's hope to gradually increase production to 5000 cases of wine annually. This will take time and require additional plantings of grapes on the western section of the vineyard.

Although Barbara told me that she would love to someday retire and live at the vineyard and in Florida, I know that a vineyard proprietor's "work" never ends.

SHERWOOD HOUSE VINEYARDS
1999 ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY

Released: June 2001; 554 cases (less than 300 cases remain)
Winemakers: Russell Hearn and Giles Martin
Vineyard Master: Steve Mudd (NY State 2000 Grower of the year)
Winemaking Process: Tete de Cuvee crafted in the Burgundian style method from only the gentle first press of the grapes.

Winemakers Tasting Notes:
Silvery yellow color, light and buttery nose,
with hazelnuts, and vanilla. Flavors of apple, pear, and
orange blossoms, subtle rum, oak, and toastiness and
well balanced with high aromas.
Holding period: drink now or cellar for up to ten years.
Price: $27.00

At present, Charles is overseeing the wine making process while Barbara is covering the sales and marketing side of the business. Barbara is a friendly, go-getter who has spent many a day visiting restaurants getting them to try their wine. Judging by her list of customers, She has made a great impression with her wine. These fine establishments now sell Sherwood House Vineyard's Chardonnay:

New York City restaurants:
Cello
Blue Ribbon
Home
Crazy Dog Dinner
Archibaldo Restaurant
China Grill
Manhattan Grill

Long Island restaurants:
The American Hotel
Jamesport Kitchen

New York State Wine re-sellers:
Sherry Lehman
Amagansett Wine & Liquors
Park Ave Liquors
Franey Wines & Liquors
Zachy's
Harvey Claudios
67th Street Liquors
Showcase Wine & Liqours

At present, the Smithen's have no plans to open a tasting room or conduct vineyard tours on site. New York State residents may purchase wine directly from Sherwood house by calling 212 439-0033 or email: info@sherwoodhousevineyards.com

Shipments are made via UPS within New York State.

Sherwood House Vineyards has all of the promise and ingredients to become Long Island's first cult wine. Charles and Barbara Smithen are committed to maintaining rigid standards. They understand that their grapes will only get better as their vines mature in age. Charles told me " Great wine is coming".

CD

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