
2000 Volume 2
|
In every
issue of Long Island Wine Country.Com we will pose readers questions
to a guest LI Winemaker. You
are encouraged to e-mail your questions to |
Guest
LI Winemaker: |
What does "how are its legs" mean?
(Gail, Westminster, CO)
Dear Gail,
When you pour wine into a glass and stir it gently, you will see a transparent film around the inside of the glass. Instantly, you will observe drops called "tears" and the trace left from these tears are called the LEGS! The appearance of the legs, thinner or thicker, is attributed to the presence of glycerin and also the percentage of alcohol. The tears fall slower when the concentrations are higher. Considering that some experts say that if the tears are smaller, the legs are thin, straight and fall slowly, this is a quality character of the wine, primarily in the case of a red wine. Therefore, the alcohol is better integrated into the whole of the wine. If this is not the case, the alcohol is the first aroma that you will get from the wine.

What is the difference in color of white wines with age?
(Gail, Westminster, CO)
Dear Gail,
When red and white wines age then tend to oxidize. The process of oxidation will occur faster if, during the winemaking process, the wine has not been prepared properly for aging and if it is kept under poor conditions. A young white wine presents a pale, yellow-green color with green reflections on the outside ring of the glass. Then the wine will turn a pale gold-yellow, then a dark gold until finally becoming ochre or a dark straw color that will change the green reflections by yellow and finally brown tones.

Part A: What is the life expectancy of a wine once it's been opened?
(Diana, Bronx, NY)
Dear Diana
It depends on how the wine was made, to be
aged or not. Normally, if you do not pull out the
oxygen from the empty part, the wine will oxidize and
will also lose the most volatile compounds (initial
aromas). The best thing to do is consume the ENTIRE
bottle with good company!
Part B: Does it make a difference if it's
refrigerated?
It will be the same if you do not remove the
oxygen since any live organism - and we like to
consider the wine as something alive - consumes more
oxygen under freezing conditions.
Part C: Once opened, if left out but corked, how
should it be stored?
Considering the answer to the two previous
questions, a white wine should be kept in the
refrigerator and the red wine at room temperature (not
over 68 F)..
How can wine grow on Long Island when the
weather is so inconsistent? What makes the weather
conditions favorable to grow grapes on Long Island
compared to Napa Valley? (Joseph, Titusville, FL) Dear Joseph
The vine is a plant that is grown between the
parallels that go from southern Spain - north Africa,
to the north of France and the same on the southern
hemisphere. The trick is being able to choose the
varietal to plant in between a large amount of
different varietals according to the type of soil, the
weather conditions, (cold hours, millimeters of rain,
and days of sun during ripeness period...) because,
depending on their genetics, they will adapt better to
one area or the other. In that sense, it is the
meaning of the French word "terroir": linking one
determinate varietal to a specific soil, climate and
management in order to obtain its maximum expression.
Why can men live from Florida to Alaska? Also by
genetics it has been proven that people with blue eyes
can stand cold temperatures better than those with
brown eyes. Even if you plant the same varietal in
two different soil and weather conditions, the
management of the vines will be different and the
results, talking on wine as the final result, will be
completely different. That is why you can not
expect, for example, a Chardonnay to be the same if it
comes from a hot region (Napa) or a cold region
(Burgundy or New York). Though different, each has to
be appreciated in its own right. That does not mean
that one is better than the other. However, since
they are completely different so will one be loved by
some people and the other by other people, depending
on their taste (sweet, acid, fruity, oaky, etc.).
Why do some wines like Cabernet Sauvignon
have a "bite" to them, while some others like San
Giovese do not? (Lindsay, Massapequa, NY) Dear Lindsay
In English, the word bite refers to the
astringency given by the tannins. It will first
depend on the varietal and its own genetic character.
All red varietals have more or less tannins, so it
will depend on the canopy management that aids in the
concentration of different substances in the grapes,
the degree of ripeness achieved and finally, the
winemaking operations and the age of the wine (in an
old wine, the molecule of tannins create links during
the aging with the color molecules, antocians,
decrease the astringency and the brightness of the
wine).
Why do some wineries use synthetic corks?
Do they affect the taste of wine?
(David, Fairfax,VA) Dear David
Primarily, it is an economical option. A lot
of studies have taken place and it has been proven
that no organoleptic alteration is produced, remaining
more as a cultural and social factor at the time to
open a bottle or trying to show more quality. It has
even been said that during the aging of the wine, some
oxygen goes through the cork. The amount of oxygen is
so small that the real reason of the development of a
wine in the bottle is a result of interaction between
the molecules of thousands of different substances,
and not to the amount of oxygen that can pass through
the capsule and the porosity of the cork. In
addition, we can say that the synthetic cork will
avoid all kinds of problems related to the natural
cork such as moldy, cork flavor and pieces of cork
floating. Finally, in countries such as Portugal and
Spain, organized plans for the cork tree have been
established and not enough cork will be available in
the future years.
When a wine is described as having a hint
of fruit (e.g.:peach or apple) does that mean that
these fruits are added during the wine making process?
(Darcy, Hauppauge, NY) Dear Darcy
No, each varietal has its own
characteristics. During the fermenting process the
yeasts will help the creation or improvement of some
flavors, depending on the created molecules. It is
true that some wineries will add synthetic flavors to
their wines if their grapes did not reach the
appropriate ripeness degree or the winemaking
operations were not correct.
Why are some wines bottled in dark
bottles? (Marilyn, Greenlawn, NY) Dear Marilyn
This is done to protect them from the damage
that light can produce in a wine when it is aged.
Why are some bottles/cords sealed with
tin and others with plastic or wax?
(Tyler, Boulder, CO) Dear Tyler
It is simply a matter of price and packaging
design.
What is Ice Wine and how is it made?
(Joseph, San Diego, CA)
An ice wine is a wine made from frozen
grapes. When the water freezes and the sugar and
other substances concentrate. It can be made
naturally by leaving the grapes on the vine, (for
example, in Canada) The rule is at least two days
under 11 F. It can also be made artificially by
freezing the grapes after they are picked, thereby
helping Mother Nature out! Guest
LI Winemaker: Q:
Does the alcohol content listed on the label give any indication of the method
and quality of the product? What controls how much alcohol is in a specific
type of wine? How about those reduced alcohol wines sold in supermarkets? Gail,
Westminster, CO Dear Gail, (Let me preface my
answer by reminding the reader that the alcohol content in a wine is usually
determined by the sugar content of the grapes at harvest.) The alcohol content
doesn't usually give an indication of the wine making or quality. The problem
is that there are too many variables. As an example, a Cabernet from Bordeaux
may have an alcohol content of 12% while one from a warm region of California
may exceed 14%. The percent is not telling you much about the style of wine,
the method of wine making, or necessarily about flavors other than alcohol.
In some climates, the flavor development may lag behind the sugar accumulation
in the berry, or simply never develop to the degree the winemaker may want.
In other regions, it is the sugar that lags behind the flavor development. This
often depends on what variety is grown where. Also there are some regions of
the world and the U.S. where the addition of sugar to juice is allowed in order
to increase the alcohol content of the final wine. The ripe fruit flavors may
be present, but the sugar has not increased to the point of giving a wine balanced
in flavor and body, and with the stability one might expect with alcohols in
a "normal" range. One must bear in mind that in such cases, where some sugar
may be added, no definite inference can be drawn as to the final quality. A
further wrench is thrown into the works when one considers that some, but not
all, sweet and semi-sweet wines are produced by stopping the fermentation, leaving
some of the natural grape sugar unfermented by the yeast (the yeast turn sugar
into ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide). These wines will have a lower alcohol
than would have resulted if the fermentation had been allowed to progress to
completion, that is, to dryness, when all the sugar has been used by the yeast.
As with all things, there are exceptions the statements above. If a Zinfandel
from the Foothills region of California measures 11% alcohol (though I have
never seen one), one may wonder what went wrong in the vineyard in a region
where many wines regularly exceed 14%. Similarly, Champagnes and methode champenoise
sparkling wines, and Ports and Port-style wines, by technique and/or tradition,
are usually found in a narrow range of alcohols. If they have missed this mark
by a long shot, one may wonder if this was because of a problem in the vineyard,
error in wine making, or a deliberate deviation in style. (I have tasted very
nice fortified, Port-style wines intentionally made at about 14% ABV, instead
of the usual 18-20%.) The final judgment is made, as always with wine, and probably
with art, by answering the question, "Do you like it?". Q: I've seen on French
wines the term, "Appellation Controllee.'' Does the U.S. have any such advisory
board? Steve,
Lindenhurst, NY Dear Steve, The Bureau of Alcohol,
Tobacco and Firearms oversees the delineation of official appellations, known
as American Viticultural Areas, or AVAs. The areas defined, but not the letters
"AVA" themselves, may be found on the label. These are defined by geographic,
climatic and political boundaries, although, as in France, who gets in and who
is left out of a region being defined is sometimes a rancorous issue to those
involved. The area listed on the label may be almost as large as a massive and
varied county, or as small as the side of a range of hills. Unlike the French
rules, falling under an AVA does not impose any restrictions on which grape
varieties are grown, training system, yield or irrigation. It can be argued
that the rules are therefore less useful for the consumer, since less can be
known about the product before purchase. Still, there is so much variation to
be seen where such rules do apply that it is hard to imagine the consumer is
losing very much in his or her knowledge of an untasted bottle designated by
an AVA. Furthermore, the restrictions that accompany legally defined viticultural
areas in Europe, as stated above and usually adhered to, have been developed,
for better and worse, over millennia. California simply doesn't yet have the
history to have a more clearly defined idea of what works better where. Also,
the whole idea of having the government telling a farmer what to grow and how
to grow it runs contrary to the American spirit (at least doing so without a
BIG financial incentive). Q:Can any wine be made
into sparkling wine? Is it just carbon dioxide pumped into the bottle under
pressure, or is there something unique about Champagne? Boden,
Savage, MN Dear Boden, Yes, any wine can be
made into sparkling wine. What is made into sparkling wine, and how it is done
may create a wine as different from the next as an old army ration of Spam is
from filet mignon. The least complex method involves injecting carbon dioxide
under pressure into a base (non-sparkling) wine. Holding and bottling this product
under pressure will deliver a wine with the same delicacy of bubbles as a bottle
of seltzer. An inferior base wine is used, some of it tasting like a stick of
grape-flavored gum. The next step up is tank-fermented wine, where the bubbles
in the wine are naturally produced by the fermentation. The carbon dioxide from
the fermentation is not allowed to pe the atmosphere, but is held under
pressure in a sealed tank. This is often called the Charmat, or bulk, process.
The quality of the bubbles - their fineness and lasting power, is better than
the first type of sparkling wine, discussed above. The third method of sparkling
wine production is the transfer method. This product may say, "Fermented in
the Bottle." Note that it does not say, "this bottle." That is because the wine
undergoes a second yeast fermentation in an individual wine bottle, but is then
filtered and transferred to another bottle under pressure, so as not to lose
too much CO2 to the atmosphere. The close contact of the wine to the yeast cells
in the bottle gives this type of wine an added complexity over the other methods.
The final type, and giving the best potential quality, is the type found in
Champagne from France, and in other wines labeled either "Methode Champenoise,"
or "Naturally Fermented in this Bottle." These wines are fermented in the same
bottle that you purchase from your wine shop; the yeast is painstakingly collected
in the neck of the bottle and quickly "disgorged" in a plug. The bottle is immediately
resealed with a cork. The potential delicacy bubbles is at its greatest here,
as is the potential for complexity of flavor. The wine has been in (usually)
extended close contact with the yeast, from months to years, making it a labor-intensive,
capital-intensive, much sought-after and expensive product. Consumers are usually
surprised to learn how much time and effort goes into the making of a bottle
of this type of sparkling wine. To justify the effort, usually base wines of
superior quality are selected to undergo this second fermentation. dinner) Q. I've read that white
wine isn't made just from white (green) grapes. What makes white wine the color
that it is, as compared to red? David,Hastings,NE Dear David, Vitis vinifera, or
the species of European wine grapes used for the most widely accepted wines
around the world, have white flesh, regardless of the color of the skin. Red
wine is produced from these grapes by fermenting the juice in contact with the
skin. The color is leached out to the fermenting juice over the course of the
fermentation, the leaching being quickened by the heat and alcohol produced.
If the red grapes are hand-harvested and gently pressed, reducing damage to
the skin, the winemaker can minimize the color that bleeds into the juice from
the skins. From this point, the more-or-less white juice may be fermented as
all other white wines, without contact with the skins. Q: What is a "Concord"
grape, and what wines use that type of grape? Arthur,
Northvale,NJ Dear Arthur, The concord is a grape
native to eastern North America, and belongs to the species Vitis labrusca.
It is very strongly flavored, and is the same grape used to produce the well-known
deep purple grape juice and grape jelly we've all had as children. The same
flavor in the juice is carried over very well to the finished wine. It is a
character that one must have experienced early in one's exposure to wine in
order not to find it bizarre and overwhelming. It is not capable of producing
a wine of complexity. It is often used for kosher wines, usually quite sweet,
and continues to be a standard in many Jewish homes during holidays. Increasingly,
though, other, quality kosher wines made from the European grape species Vitis
vinifera are making inroads into this traditional bastion of the Concord grape. Q:. What variety of
wine did Jesus make from water at Cana in the Galilee? According to John 2:10,
the wine was better than the pedestrian red served at the beginning of the wedding?
Hank,
Farmingdale,NY Dear Hank, Wine had been made
for thousands of years before the New Testament was written. We can therefore
imagine that by the events of two thousand years ago, there were quite distinct,
carefully selected varieties of Vitis vinifera, the species of the area, and
the classic species for wine making in Europe and the world. There is, however,
no record of what varieties, or cultivars, were grown in the area at the time.
Even today, one can see vigorous wild vines growing along back roads in the
area, as long as there is water within reach of the roots. The leaves are usually
large and deeply lobed, and the berries are elongated. The vines still grown
in courtyards in small villages in the area may provide a clue to what was grown
in the area thousands of years ago. Of course, one could make the point that,
being the result of a miracle, no particular pre-existing wine type need to
be made. Q:. Is there a shelf
life for white wines such as Chardonnay? Jenifer,
Ronkonkoma, NY Dear Jenifer, If I had to give a
specific length of time, the answer would be "no." I have tasted delicious Chardonnay's
and Sauvignon blancs well over a decade old, and others that were losing their
fruit and gaining an unpleasant aged character after just a few years. Of course,
good storage conditions can greatly help any wine's longevity. I have sometimes
found semi-dry wines don't last as long as truly dry wines. At the other extreme,
very sweet late harvest whites also have a reputation for longevity. If you
have several bottles of one type of white wine, I would recommend drinking one,
taking note of the flavors, and deciding then to try another in six months or
a year, or to drink them as quickly as occasions arise. Q:. I've noticed that
there are different sizes and shapes of wine glasses available. Why? Cunard,
Birmingham,England Dear Cunard, Several reasons come
to mind. First, but NOT most importantly, there is tradition. Certain wine glasses
have been used for the wines of certain types for hundreds of years. Of more
importance is the comfort to the taster, and the ability of the glass to hold
and concentrate the various volatile aroma compounds in the area inside the
glass above the surface of the wine. Any clear glass with a comfortable stem,
whose rim curves in toward the top, should accomplish this well. The stem will
allow the taster to swirl the glass to help release the aromas into the air
above the wine. It also keeps the hand away from the bowl of the glass so as
not to warm the wine too much. The curved rim keeps the swirled wine from spilling
out, as well as concentrates the aromas. I suggest talking to the owner of a
respected wine shop for recommendations. Many good examples may be had for quite
reasonable prices. White wine glasses are usually a little smaller than those
for reds, but a good compromise may be found which can accommodate both wine
types quite adequately. Sparkling wine flutes are the exception, deviating from
the standard wine glass shape described above. It is longer, and more evenly
tapered, with less of an outwardly bulging balloon shape. This helps preserve
the bubbles, or mousse, and, as much of the aesthetic pleasure is derived from
viewing the ascent of bubbles to the surface - a longer travel is preferred.
Also, the smaller surface area compared to the volume of wine in the glass creates
a better layer of bubbles at the surface.The marketing people for a few companies
would have one believe that you were missing the essence of a wine if you had
a mature Bordeaux in a glass designed for a younger Bordeaux, but don't worry
about this. They are preying upon people who have been misled into forgetting
that wine is for everybody, not just for the initiated few, and not just for
those who can afford to have the "pre-assigned" glass for a particular wine.
This is not to say that there is no difference between glasses, only that it
is not necessary to acquire a set of every permutation available in order to
enjoy a good wine. Provide one or two types for table wines, and another for
sparkling, and unless you feeling like playing with all the accouterments, beyond
these basics I've described, pay more attention to what is in the glass than
to what is holding your wine. Q:. I recently tried
a Long Island Chardonnay that had a fizzy aftertaste. What causes this? Darcy,
Hauppauge Dear Darcy, There are several
possibilities. If the wine is bottled early enough in the season, there may
still be residual dissolved CO2 produced during the fermentation. Another possibility
is that the wine has absorbed some CO2 that was used to displace oxygen in the
tank's head space. Oxygen is generally considered to be an enemy of wine and
winemakers will frequently put an inert gas in any head space in a tank to remove
oxygen-containing air. If the wine has been kept cool, there is a chance it
might have absorbed a small amount of the CO2, if CO2 is the gas that had been
used. The last possibility is that something had gone awry in the bottle, or
possible in the tank before bottling. This is not likely, but it can happen.
Perhaps an unwanted microbe had begun to grow, producing carbon dioxide into
the wine. This is a rare occurrence, and don't be concerned: no human pathogens
have ever been isolated from wine. That is, it may not taste right, but it won't
hurt you. In your particular case, this seems an unlikely possibility, because
you report only the sensation of the "fizz," not any other odd flavors or aromas.
In low levels, some residual CO2 from the fermentation can add a little liveliness
in the mouth, and may be part of the intended style. Q: What is the difference
between a grower and a winemaker? Chad,
Chicago, IL Dear Chad, A grower is responsible
for the vines in a vineyard, and a winemaker works with the grapes from the
time they are picked to the bottling of the wine; that is, a grower grows the
fruit, a winemaker makes the wine. Of course, a good grower will have an interest
in what happens to the wine produced in the winery from his or her fruit, and
the winemaker must have a great interest in what happens in the vineyard since
you can't make good wi rom bad grapes. Furthermore, many small vineyard owners
are also their own winemakers. Increasingly, there is an overlap of these disciplines.. For information or comments








Peter Silverberg of
Osprey's Dominion Vineyards
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