ask the Winemaker
2000 Volume 2

In every issue of Long Island Wine Country.Com we will pose readers questions to a guest LI Winemaker. You are encouraged to e-mail your questions to

ask@longislandwinecountry.com.

Questions and answers will be posted monthly.


Jose Montilla

 

Guest LI Winemaker:
Jose Montilla
Wine Maker at Macari Vineyards,
Mattituck, NY





What does "how are its legs" mean?

(Gail, Westminster, CO)

Dear Gail,

When you pour wine into a glass and stir it gently, you will see a transparent film around the inside of the glass. Instantly, you will observe drops called "tears" and the trace left from these tears are called the LEGS! The appearance of the legs, thinner or thicker, is attributed to the presence of glycerin and also the percentage of alcohol. The tears fall slower when the concentrations are higher. Considering that some experts say that if the tears are smaller, the legs are thin, straight and fall slowly, this is a quality character of the wine, primarily in the case of a red wine. Therefore, the alcohol is better integrated into the whole of the wine. If this is not the case, the alcohol is the first aroma that you will get from the wine.

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What is the difference in color of white wines with age?

(Gail, Westminster, CO)

Dear Gail,

When red and white wines age then tend to oxidize. The process of oxidation will occur faster if, during the winemaking process, the wine has not been prepared properly for aging and if it is kept under poor conditions. A young white wine presents a pale, yellow-green color with green reflections on the outside ring of the glass. Then the wine will turn a pale gold-yellow, then a dark gold until finally becoming ochre or a dark straw color that will change the green reflections by yellow and finally brown tones.

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Part A: What is the life expectancy of a wine once it's been opened?

(Diana, Bronx, NY)

Dear Diana

It depends on how the wine was made, to be aged or not. Normally, if you do not pull out the oxygen from the empty part, the wine will oxidize and will also lose the most volatile compounds (initial aromas). The best thing to do is consume the ENTIRE bottle with good company!

Part B: Does it make a difference if it's refrigerated?

It will be the same if you do not remove the oxygen since any live organism - and we like to consider the wine as something alive - consumes more oxygen under freezing conditions.


Part C: Once opened, if left out but corked, how should it be stored?

Considering the answer to the two previous questions, a white wine should be kept in the refrigerator and the red wine at room temperature (not over 68 F)..




How can wine grow on Long Island when the weather is so inconsistent? What makes the weather conditions favorable to grow grapes on Long Island compared to Napa Valley?

(Joseph, Titusville, FL)

Dear Joseph

The vine is a plant that is grown between the parallels that go from southern Spain - north Africa, to the north of France and the same on the southern hemisphere. The trick is being able to choose the varietal to plant in between a large amount of different varietals according to the type of soil, the weather conditions, (cold hours, millimeters of rain, and days of sun during ripeness period...) because, depending on their genetics, they will adapt better to one area or the other. In that sense, it is the meaning of the French word "terroir": linking one determinate varietal to a specific soil, climate and management in order to obtain its maximum expression. Why can men live from Florida to Alaska? Also by genetics it has been proven that people with blue eyes can stand cold temperatures better than those with brown eyes. Even if you plant the same varietal in two different soil and weather conditions, the management of the vines will be different and the results, talking on wine as the final result, will be completely different. That is why you can not expect, for example, a Chardonnay to be the same if it comes from a hot region (Napa) or a cold region (Burgundy or New York). Though different, each has to be appreciated in its own right. That does not mean that one is better than the other. However, since they are completely different so will one be loved by some people and the other by other people, depending on their taste (sweet, acid, fruity, oaky, etc.).




Why do some wines like Cabernet Sauvignon have a "bite" to them, while some others like San Giovese do not?

(Lindsay, Massapequa, NY)

Dear Lindsay

In English, the word bite refers to the astringency given by the tannins. It will first depend on the varietal and its own genetic character. All red varietals have more or less tannins, so it will depend on the canopy management that aids in the concentration of different substances in the grapes, the degree of ripeness achieved and finally, the winemaking operations and the age of the wine (in an old wine, the molecule of tannins create links during the aging with the color molecules, antocians, decrease the astringency and the brightness of the wine).




Why do some wineries use synthetic corks? Do they affect the taste of wine?

(David, Fairfax,VA)

Dear David

Primarily, it is an economical option. A lot of studies have taken place and it has been proven that no organoleptic alteration is produced, remaining more as a cultural and social factor at the time to open a bottle or trying to show more quality. It has even been said that during the aging of the wine, some oxygen goes through the cork. The amount of oxygen is so small that the real reason of the development of a wine in the bottle is a result of interaction between the molecules of thousands of different substances, and not to the amount of oxygen that can pass through the capsule and the porosity of the cork. In addition, we can say that the synthetic cork will avoid all kinds of problems related to the natural cork such as moldy, cork flavor and pieces of cork floating. Finally, in countries such as Portugal and Spain, organized plans for the cork tree have been established and not enough cork will be available in the future years.




When a wine is described as having a hint of fruit (e.g.:peach or apple) does that mean that these fruits are added during the wine making process?

(Darcy, Hauppauge, NY)

Dear Darcy

No, each varietal has its own characteristics. During the fermenting process the yeasts will help the creation or improvement of some flavors, depending on the created molecules. It is true that some wineries will add synthetic flavors to their wines if their grapes did not reach the appropriate ripeness degree or the winemaking operations were not correct.




Why are some wines bottled in dark bottles?

(Marilyn, Greenlawn, NY)

Dear Marilyn

This is done to protect them from the damage that light can produce in a wine when it is aged.




Why are some bottles/cords sealed with tin and others with plastic or wax?

(Tyler, Boulder, CO)

Dear Tyler

It is simply a matter of price and packaging design.




What is Ice Wine and how is it made?

(Joseph, San Diego, CA)

An ice wine is a wine made from frozen grapes. When the water freezes and the sugar and other substances concentrate. It can be made naturally by leaving the grapes on the vine, (for example, in Canada) The rule is at least two days under 11 F. It can also be made artificially by freezing the grapes after they are picked, thereby helping Mother Nature out!




Peter Silverberg

 

Guest LI Winemaker:
Peter Silverberg of
Osprey's Dominion Vineyards





Q: Does the alcohol content listed on the label give any indication of the method and quality of the product? What controls how much alcohol is in a specific type of wine? How about those reduced alcohol wines sold in supermarkets?

Gail, Westminster, CO

Dear Gail,

(Let me preface my answer by reminding the reader that the alcohol content in a wine is usually determined by the sugar content of the grapes at harvest.) The alcohol content doesn't usually give an indication of the wine making or quality. The problem is that there are too many variables. As an example, a Cabernet from Bordeaux may have an alcohol content of 12% while one from a warm region of California may exceed 14%. The percent is not telling you much about the style of wine, the method of wine making, or necessarily about flavors other than alcohol. In some climates, the flavor development may lag behind the sugar accumulation in the berry, or simply never develop to the degree the winemaker may want. In other regions, it is the sugar that lags behind the flavor development. This often depends on what variety is grown where. Also there are some regions of the world and the U.S. where the addition of sugar to juice is allowed in order to increase the alcohol content of the final wine. The ripe fruit flavors may be present, but the sugar has not increased to the point of giving a wine balanced in flavor and body, and with the stability one might expect with alcohols in a "normal" range. One must bear in mind that in such cases, where some sugar may be added, no definite inference can be drawn as to the final quality. A further wrench is thrown into the works when one considers that some, but not all, sweet and semi-sweet wines are produced by stopping the fermentation, leaving some of the natural grape sugar unfermented by the yeast (the yeast turn sugar into ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide). These wines will have a lower alcohol than would have resulted if the fermentation had been allowed to progress to completion, that is, to dryness, when all the sugar has been used by the yeast. As with all things, there are exceptions the statements above. If a Zinfandel from the Foothills region of California measures 11% alcohol (though I have never seen one), one may wonder what went wrong in the vineyard in a region where many wines regularly exceed 14%. Similarly, Champagnes and methode champenoise sparkling wines, and Ports and Port-style wines, by technique and/or tradition, are usually found in a narrow range of alcohols. If they have missed this mark by a long shot, one may wonder if this was because of a problem in the vineyard, error in wine making, or a deliberate deviation in style. (I have tasted very nice fortified, Port-style wines intentionally made at about 14% ABV, instead of the usual 18-20%.) The final judgment is made, as always with wine, and probably with art, by answering the question, "Do you like it?".




Q: I've seen on French wines the term, "Appellation Controllee.'' Does the U.S. have any such advisory board?

Steve, Lindenhurst, NY

Dear Steve,

The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms oversees the delineation of official appellations, known as American Viticultural Areas, or AVAs. The areas defined, but not the letters "AVA" themselves, may be found on the label. These are defined by geographic, climatic and political boundaries, although, as in France, who gets in and who is left out of a region being defined is sometimes a rancorous issue to those involved. The area listed on the label may be almost as large as a massive and varied county, or as small as the side of a range of hills. Unlike the French rules, falling under an AVA does not impose any restrictions on which grape varieties are grown, training system, yield or irrigation. It can be argued that the rules are therefore less useful for the consumer, since less can be known about the product before purchase. Still, there is so much variation to be seen where such rules do apply that it is hard to imagine the consumer is losing very much in his or her knowledge of an untasted bottle designated by an AVA. Furthermore, the restrictions that accompany legally defined viticultural areas in Europe, as stated above and usually adhered to, have been developed, for better and worse, over millennia. California simply doesn't yet have the history to have a more clearly defined idea of what works better where. Also, the whole idea of having the government telling a farmer what to grow and how to grow it runs contrary to the American spirit (at least doing so without a BIG financial incentive).




Q:Can any wine be made into sparkling wine? Is it just carbon dioxide pumped into the bottle under pressure, or is there something unique about Champagne?

Boden, Savage, MN

Dear Boden,

Yes, any wine can be made into sparkling wine. What is made into sparkling wine, and how it is done may create a wine as different from the next as an old army ration of Spam is from filet mignon. The least complex method involves injecting carbon dioxide under pressure into a base (non-sparkling) wine. Holding and bottling this product under pressure will deliver a wine with the same delicacy of bubbles as a bottle of seltzer. An inferior base wine is used, some of it tasting like a stick of grape-flavored gum. The next step up is tank-fermented wine, where the bubbles in the wine are naturally produced by the fermentation. The carbon dioxide from the fermentation is not allowed to pethe atmosphere, but is held under pressure in a sealed tank. This is often called the Charmat, or bulk, process. The quality of the bubbles - their fineness and lasting power, is better than the first type of sparkling wine, discussed above. The third method of sparkling wine production is the transfer method. This product may say, "Fermented in the Bottle." Note that it does not say, "this bottle." That is because the wine undergoes a second yeast fermentation in an individual wine bottle, but is then filtered and transferred to another bottle under pressure, so as not to lose too much CO2 to the atmosphere. The close contact of the wine to the yeast cells in the bottle gives this type of wine an added complexity over the other methods. The final type, and giving the best potential quality, is the type found in Champagne from France, and in other wines labeled either "Methode Champenoise," or "Naturally Fermented in this Bottle." These wines are fermented in the same bottle that you purchase from your wine shop; the yeast is painstakingly collected in the neck of the bottle and quickly "disgorged" in a plug. The bottle is immediately resealed with a cork. The potential delicacy bubbles is at its greatest here, as is the potential for complexity of flavor. The wine has been in (usually) extended close contact with the yeast, from months to years, making it a labor-intensive, capital-intensive, much sought-after and expensive product. Consumers are usually surprised to learn how much time and effort goes into the making of a bottle of this type of sparkling wine. To justify the effort, usually base wines of superior quality are selected to undergo this second fermentation. dinner)




Q. I've read that white wine isn't made just from white (green) grapes. What makes white wine the color that it is, as compared to red?

David,Hastings,NE

Dear David,

Vitis vinifera, or the species of European wine grapes used for the most widely accepted wines around the world, have white flesh, regardless of the color of the skin. Red wine is produced from these grapes by fermenting the juice in contact with the skin. The color is leached out to the fermenting juice over the course of the fermentation, the leaching being quickened by the heat and alcohol produced. If the red grapes are hand-harvested and gently pressed, reducing damage to the skin, the winemaker can minimize the color that bleeds into the juice from the skins. From this point, the more-or-less white juice may be fermented as all other white wines, without contact with the skins.




Q: What is a "Concord" grape, and what wines use that type of grape?

Arthur, Northvale,NJ

Dear Arthur,

The concord is a grape native to eastern North America, and belongs to the species Vitis labrusca. It is very strongly flavored, and is the same grape used to produce the well-known deep purple grape juice and grape jelly we've all had as children. The same flavor in the juice is carried over very well to the finished wine. It is a character that one must have experienced early in one's exposure to wine in order not to find it bizarre and overwhelming. It is not capable of producing a wine of complexity. It is often used for kosher wines, usually quite sweet, and continues to be a standard in many Jewish homes during holidays. Increasingly, though, other, quality kosher wines made from the European grape species Vitis vinifera are making inroads into this traditional bastion of the Concord grape.




Q:. What variety of wine did Jesus make from water at Cana in the Galilee? According to John 2:10, the wine was better than the pedestrian red served at the beginning of the wedding?

Hank, Farmingdale,NY

Dear Hank,

Wine had been made for thousands of years before the New Testament was written. We can therefore imagine that by the events of two thousand years ago, there were quite distinct, carefully selected varieties of Vitis vinifera, the species of the area, and the classic species for wine making in Europe and the world. There is, however, no record of what varieties, or cultivars, were grown in the area at the time. Even today, one can see vigorous wild vines growing along back roads in the area, as long as there is water within reach of the roots. The leaves are usually large and deeply lobed, and the berries are elongated. The vines still grown in courtyards in small villages in the area may provide a clue to what was grown in the area thousands of years ago. Of course, one could make the point that, being the result of a miracle, no particular pre-existing wine type need to be made.




Q:. Is there a shelf life for white wines such as Chardonnay?

Jenifer, Ronkonkoma, NY

Dear Jenifer,

If I had to give a specific length of time, the answer would be "no." I have tasted delicious Chardonnay's and Sauvignon blancs well over a decade old, and others that were losing their fruit and gaining an unpleasant aged character after just a few years. Of course, good storage conditions can greatly help any wine's longevity. I have sometimes found semi-dry wines don't last as long as truly dry wines. At the other extreme, very sweet late harvest whites also have a reputation for longevity. If you have several bottles of one type of white wine, I would recommend drinking one, taking note of the flavors, and deciding then to try another in six months or a year, or to drink them as quickly as occasions arise.




Q:. I've noticed that there are different sizes and shapes of wine glasses available. Why?

Cunard, Birmingham,England

Dear Cunard,

Several reasons come to mind. First, but NOT most importantly, there is tradition. Certain wine glasses have been used for the wines of certain types for hundreds of years. Of more importance is the comfort to the taster, and the ability of the glass to hold and concentrate the various volatile aroma compounds in the area inside the glass above the surface of the wine. Any clear glass with a comfortable stem, whose rim curves in toward the top, should accomplish this well. The stem will allow the taster to swirl the glass to help release the aromas into the air above the wine. It also keeps the hand away from the bowl of the glass so as not to warm the wine too much. The curved rim keeps the swirled wine from spilling out, as well as concentrates the aromas. I suggest talking to the owner of a respected wine shop for recommendations. Many good examples may be had for quite reasonable prices. White wine glasses are usually a little smaller than those for reds, but a good compromise may be found which can accommodate both wine types quite adequately. Sparkling wine flutes are the exception, deviating from the standard wine glass shape described above. It is longer, and more evenly tapered, with less of an outwardly bulging balloon shape. This helps preserve the bubbles, or mousse, and, as much of the aesthetic pleasure is derived from viewing the ascent of bubbles to the surface - a longer travel is preferred. Also, the smaller surface area compared to the volume of wine in the glass creates a better layer of bubbles at the surface.The marketing people for a few companies would have one believe that you were missing the essence of a wine if you had a mature Bordeaux in a glass designed for a younger Bordeaux, but don't worry about this. They are preying upon people who have been misled into forgetting that wine is for everybody, not just for the initiated few, and not just for those who can afford to have the "pre-assigned" glass for a particular wine. This is not to say that there is no difference between glasses, only that it is not necessary to acquire a set of every permutation available in order to enjoy a good wine. Provide one or two types for table wines, and another for sparkling, and unless you feeling like playing with all the accouterments, beyond these basics I've described, pay more attention to what is in the glass than to what is holding your wine.




Q:. I recently tried a Long Island Chardonnay that had a fizzy aftertaste. What causes this?

Darcy, Hauppauge

Dear Darcy,

There are several possibilities. If the wine is bottled early enough in the season, there may still be residual dissolved CO2 produced during the fermentation. Another possibility is that the wine has absorbed some CO2 that was used to displace oxygen in the tank's head space. Oxygen is generally considered to be an enemy of wine and winemakers will frequently put an inert gas in any head space in a tank to remove oxygen-containing air. If the wine has been kept cool, there is a chance it might have absorbed a small amount of the CO2, if CO2 is the gas that had been used. The last possibility is that something had gone awry in the bottle, or possible in the tank before bottling. This is not likely, but it can happen. Perhaps an unwanted microbe had begun to grow, producing carbon dioxide into the wine. This is a rare occurrence, and don't be concerned: no human pathogens have ever been isolated from wine. That is, it may not taste right, but it won't hurt you. In your particular case, this seems an unlikely possibility, because you report only the sensation of the "fizz," not any other odd flavors or aromas. In low levels, some residual CO2 from the fermentation can add a little liveliness in the mouth, and may be part of the intended style.




Q: What is the difference between a grower and a winemaker?

Chad, Chicago, IL

Dear Chad,

A grower is responsible for the vines in a vineyard, and a winemaker works with the grapes from the time they are picked to the bottling of the wine; that is, a grower grows the fruit, a winemaker makes the wine. Of course, a good grower will have an interest in what happens to the wine produced in the winery from his or her fruit, and the winemaker must have a great interest in what happens in the vineyard since you can't make good wirom bad grapes. Furthermore, many small vineyard owners are also their own winemakers. Increasingly, there is an overlap of these disciplines..

 

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